Tel Aviv
I was a really shy and anxious child, teen and young adult. Somehow that anxiety also lived alongside the fiercely independent and adventurous human that I also happen to be. If any of us have learned anything this year it is that more than one thing can be true at the same time. I’ve found over the years, that the only way to beat the anxiety was by running head first into things that terrified me, no matter how large or small. That is where moving across the country in my twenties, moving around the world in my thirties and triathlon at forty was born. As my last act in the Middle East, I did one more thing that scared me. I packed up the car and navigated two border crossings with visiting friends to take them to Tel Aviv. So many guns, so many languages I didn’t speak, so much animosity. Buoyed by the support and curiosity of my friend Michaela and the unique opportunity to take my oldest, Sam with me on a solo adventure, a thing that I think is important in the chaos that is life with three children, we hit the road.
We arrived in Jerusalem on the Friday evening of Orthodox Easter, not the best planning, given that shops and restaurants were all buttoning up for the holiday. We toured the old city briefly and then moved along the highway to Tel Aviv to reach our hotel before dark. After checking in we ventured out for dinner only to find there was almost nothing open and the city was a ghost town, although beautiful in its silence. It was a rare opportunity to get a feeling for the city, disrobed of its people, observing street art, looking up at bougainvillea spilling over quiet balconies, admiring sidewalk gardens and empty park benches. As we were about to give up on finding dinner, a tiny pizzeria manifested at the other end of a plaza, with a small bench on the sidewalk with a spot for four. We grabbed a couple of cold beers, a coke for Sam and a few slices and watched the remaining life in the sleepy city crawl by.
The next morning we met for breakfast, promising Sam a turn on the rental scooters he begged to try, but eventually, with a wholeheartedly disgruntled boy, wound our way through quiet neighborhoods, on foot to Jaffa. We all needed to be by the beach and found a spot to roll up our pant legs and run through the surf with Sam. He collected sea glass while we watched the surfers come and go. After our fill of waves, we wandered tiny streets, through the flea market to Beit Kandinof where we sat in an old, arched merchant alleyway and ate. After lunch we wound through the city park and gardens overlooking the sea until the sun faded, slipping into galleries tucked into Old Jaffa and then heading back to the hotel in search of rest for our weary feet.
In the two days we’d been in Tel Aviv, the low hum of life began to increase and by Sunday we were thrumming along the streets to our final breakfast at Benedict, a diner-like breakfast spot, that had me nearly constantly reminding myself that I was in Tel Aviv and not New York. After breakfast, at the request of my wise and always grounded friend Michaela, we headed for some wild green on our drive back toward the border. We stopped just off the highway at Neve Ilan Forest, parked and climbed through a wildflower covered hill amidst ruins of an old settlement and ran through the tall grass for a few minutes to connect with the Earth.
To refuel for our return double border crossing we stopped back in Jerusalem at the Mechene Yahuda market. First attempting to eat at Machneyuda, which was packed, we were sent down the street to their sister restaurant, Yudale Bar. Where, for reasons which can rarely be explained, but work out like glancing at the sky just in time for a spontaneous shower of shooting stars, ate one of the most unforgettable meals of my life among the finest company, tucked into the corner of the bar overlooking the kitchen. It is where Sam picked up inspiration his first specialty recipe, “Surprise Fish” cooked in parchment paper and sprinkled, like confetti with vegetables and seasoning. And where we picked up Mattafix, “Big City Life,” for our playlists. Ultimately it is where I conquered more fears as I delicately drove our Jordanian-plated vehicle back through border crossing and home safely to Amman.
Stay // Hotel 75
A small boutique hotel located in one of Tel Aviv’s trendiest neighborhoods and located across the street from the Nahalat Binyamin pedestrian mall and arts and crafts market. Just twenty clean, colorful, hip rooms feel more like a chill urban apartment than a weekend get away. In the heart of nightlife, restaurants and a short walk to the beach.
75 Allenby Street, Tel Aviv
T: +972-3-5212518
https://www.hotel75-telaviv.com/
Shop // Nahalat Binyamin Market
Israel’s largest arts and crafts market opens twice per week featuring 200 local artists and craftspeople.
Nahalat Binyamin St 11, Tel Aviv-Yafo
T: +972 3-516-2037
https://nachalatbinyamin-tlv.com/
Shop // Shuk Hapishpishim
The Jaffa Flea Market is treasure trove of antiques, housewares, vintage clothing and more. Open daily, Sunday through Thursday.
Olei Zion St, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Eat // Beit Kandinof
Just off the edge of the sprawling Abrasha Park in Jaffa rests Beit Kandinof. Constructed in an old market street, patrons dine beneath an arched ceiling and between stone walls that could tell a million stories. This farm-to-table concept serves fusion Mediterranean cuisine and hosts local artists upon their walls and dj’s for the evening crowd.
HaTsorfim St 14, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
T: +972 3-650-2938
https://kandinof.co.il/
Breakfast // Benedict
As if the name wasn’t enough, eggs benny fans, this 24 hour breakfast spot serves the thickest griddled & baked pancakes. Shakshouka, Israeli breakfast and more.
Ben Yehuda St 171, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 6347203, Israel
T: +972 3-686-8657
https://www.benedict.co.il/
Touch your feet to the Earth // Neve Ilan Forest
Once the very gateway of India for travelers arriving in Bombay, this architectural entrance is now one of Mumbai's largest tourist attractions. Go early to beat the crowds, go late to enjoy the sunset and the arrival of the twinkling horse drawn carriages. Boat rides are available for those wishing to "pull back" and get the full picture.
Eat // Yudale Bar
Just go.
Beit Ya'akov St 10, Jerusalem, Israel
